Remove the Existing Garage Door

It’s time to remove the old door first thing we need to do is determine what type of Springs you have these are two common types of Springs the top one is a torsion spring the bottom ones are extension springs now if your spring is different than these please consult a professional or contact the manufacturer of that spring when working with any springs be aware that a spring under tension can be very dangerous exercise extreme caution when tensioning or D tensioning the springs. togel online

We recommend contacting a professional installation specialist when working with standard torsion springs if you have a standard torsion spring and would like to proceed on your own start by locking or clamping the door in the down position next insert a one-half inch diameter 18inch solid cold rolled steel winding bar into the winding cone and position it so that the tension of the spring holds the bar firmly against the door for your safety make sure you place yourself to one side of the bar and slowly loosen the set screws still holding onto the one barplace the other winding bar fully into the next hole in the winding cone shift.

The tension into the upper bar and remove the lower bar unwind the spring one quarter turn and place the free bar in the next hole shift attention again to the upper bar remove the lower bar and carefully allow the spring to unwind again one-quarter turn repeat this process until the tension is completely released repeat this procedure if you have a second spring if you have the extension spring set.

You can remove it with the help of your assistance first thing we need to do is raise the door to the full open position next place C clamps or locking pliers tightly on both sides of the track under the door like this so that the door is held securely in place now with the door fully open you will find that much of the spring tension has been removed and you can easily detach the cable at both ends place a wood block under the door so that you won’t crush your hand between the door and the floor remove any clamps you may have used and slowly lower the door be careful as.

Source: Youtube

Light Duty Roll Up Sheet Door Installation

Clopay Building Products presents themodel 150C light-duty rollup door installation video.

Clopay is thepreferred manufacturer and supplier of upward acting and door systems throughoutNorth America.

Clopay offers architects developers buildingprofessionals and specifiers the most extensive commercial overheadin rolling steel product offering in our industry we also offer a complete line ofoperators, accessories, and special products to complement a wide array ofcommercial design and building applications installing and maintaining the model 150C door is an easy process.

By following theseinstructions in this video as well as the installation guide thatcame with your door you’ll have a low-maintenancetop-of-the-line door installed in no time.

In fact our doors can be installed in as littleas three minutes Throughout the video you’ll seewarnings and cautions pay attention to them they’ve beenincluded for your safety and the safety of others.

Beforeinstalling a door there are some preliminary steps to take to ensure asmooth installation first evolved do not cut the tape andplastic wrap that holds the door curtain in a role until instructed to do so Next, check the wall opening with and heightand verify these measurements against the size at the door to be installed verify that your jams are flush and plump and insure their is adequate sideclearance for both the opening and at the sides of the header.

If theheaders already present make sure that its level.

Checkthat the floor is level and clean this provides a neatworking area and prevents damage to the curtain orpotential fall hazards to be efficient place the door curtainas far out from the opening as the opening istall.

So, if the opening is seven feet tall the door should be placed approximatelyseven feet away from the opening with the bottom bar against the floorfacing towards the opening as you lay the guides in place theyshould line right up with the jams and the curtain.

There are two typesof brackets the first type is the snap-on brackets align the top into the guide with the bracket as shown here insert the bracket ads into the guidesluts striking the bracket with a hammer willensure full engagement of the tabs into the guide check the tags here to be sure thebracket is locked into place this will need to be done for both theleft and right sides the second type of bracket is the bolt onassembling attach the door to the bracketguides used two each quarter twenty by 5/8 inchcarriage bolts and quarter 20 serrated flange hex nuts perbracket refer to figures 12 and 13 in yourprinted instruction guide for further assembly illustration properly lifting this door into place will require two people as the guides are not designed tosupport the curtain way during a one-man installation attemptingto install a large door with only one installer can result in serious injury and/ordamage to the door as you carefully begin to lift the door allow the guides to come to a restfirmly at the bottom of the chance this makes for a nice pivot point bywhich to complete the lifting process you’ll first need to align the leftguide flush to the left changed this isimportant so that the latches properly located adjacent to the jam secure the guide and the bracket to thesurface with the appropriate fastener a lag screw for wood jams tech screwsfor steel jams or masonry anchors for masonry orconcrete change please note: welding the guides to the jam is now ligament also confessed years arerequired per bracket to ensure that the door is properly andsafely attached to the gym now that the left guide is in place youneed to calculate where to secure the right guy to do this measure your curtain signsthe outside edge up the right guy needs to be one inch wider than yourdoor kar therefore if your door curtain measureseight feet 3 inches in the outside guide measurement shouldbe eight feet 4 inches from the outside edge up the left guideremember outside age to outside age I’ll secure the right guide and bracket inthe same manner as the left checking the outside guide measurement asecond time before securing the guide at the bar to initialize the spring tension rotate the door to revolutions in thedirection that would send the bottom part down through the guy be careful to maintain a firm grip onthe door during this process again while firmly holding the door atthe bottom bar cut the tape and the plastic rack thatholds the door in a ploy special attention to not scratch thepaint surface at the door or to slice the bottom bar bold astral direct the bottom bar into the guides and bring the door into a lowered orclosed position while carefully holding the door in adown position place the door stop through the slotslocated at the top of the guide secure the door stop in place using aquarter inch x thread cutting screw provide repeat this process to securethe door stop on the other side next install stop lipset each and on the inside at the bottom barusing the provided carriage bolt and up install handles on the outside at thebottom bar using the quarter inch by 1/2 inch carriage bolts provided in secure the rope through the two holeslocated at the center of the horizontal leg up the bottom bar angle using a double not as demonstrated I’ll for safety purposes we recommend thatyou tie an additional not in the center of the rope loop I’ll now checked the door operationraise and lower the door to test its balance if the doors easy to close but hard toopen it’s considered heavy and you’ll need toadd additional spring tension if the door is hard to close but easy toopen it’s considered ha and you need toremove the excess Spring Township for heavy door that needs additionaltension place the curtain in a fully open position carefully insert the winding bar or a1/2 inch diameter rod into the ratchet tension device located on the leftbracket slowly rotate the tension device in aclockwise direction until the door begins to open and theratchet clicks and locks into the next position I’ll for a door that’s hot place the curtainin a fully open position insert the winding bar into thetensioner and apply a slight amount of pressure so that you can carefully lift theratchet pawl then while rotating the tension device in acounter-clockwise direction carefully release the ball to allow itto lock into the next available group be very cautious have your hands keephands away from the pager the curtain in theevent that you lose your grip the recall oil can be dangerous now recheck the balance at the door repeatthe steps as needed to achieve the desired operation finally with the door in the down positiongently step on the round lift handle and push the slide latch into the guideslogging you have now successfully completed aquality installation other Clopay model 150 seat or by following the steps properly you’llhave the best operating door in the industry well should you encounter any problems orhave questions feel free to contact a representative of okay at 800 225 6729 also these instructions and other usefulinformation can be found on our website at WWW dot Clopay commercial dot com thank you for selecting ClopayBuilding Products as your door provider.

Source: Youtube

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Overhead Garage Door Ideas

The most common means of entry into a homegarage is an overhead garage door.

Everyone’s familiar with these doors, asthey can be seen opening and closing by remote all day long on any suburban residential street.

Some older homes did not have garage doorinstalled at the time they were built, however, or you may be looking for a door for yournew construction, or for an upgrade.

The two common types of garage doors are segmentedand whole.

The segmented doors roll up and have severallong, horizontal joints, so they simply follow the track up onto the ceiling of the garage.

A non-segmented garage door is one flat piecethat also follows the track, but it extends slightly out over the driveway during raisingand lowering.

Two different kinds of mechanisms may be usedin the overhead garage door system.

A chain belt (like the chain on a bicycle)is one such mechanism.

The chain drive attaches to the motor thatis mounted on the garage ceiling and draws the door up.

Another version is the screw drive mechanism.

This is a very heavy, very strong screw-likerod that draws up and lowers the door.

Garage doors these days come with a safetydevice.

Infrared motion sensors attach at the baseof the garage door opening.

If something passes in front of these sensorswhile the door is lowering, they will be triggered to reverse the door.

This protects people, pets, and cars fromgetting crushed by the door.

Garage doors and their motors and mechanismsare available for purchase at all major home improvement centers.

You can install them yourself, but it takesa lot of patience and you must be pretty handy.

The easier option is to have them installed.

The home improvement center will be able torecommend contractors if you buy your system there.

You can even set up installation through them.

Another option is to call a company specializingin the sale and installation of overhead garage doors.

This is even easier, as they come to yourhome with a catalog and handle everything from start to finish.

Source: Youtube

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Garage Door Repairs London

Garage Door Repair London, is your garage door not working right is it making too much noise or not opening or closing correctly we can fix it you are an affordable price and peace of mind Garage Door Repair London are specialists carriage door fitters have carried out every kind of carriage door installation and maintenance service and provide great customer satisfaction call us best Garage Door Repairs London call us now our contact details are found in the first line of this video best Garage Door Repair London.

Source: Youtube

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Low Budget Home Decorating Can Really Give Your Home a Lift

When it comes to interior or exterior decorating, most people believe it is a costly affair. What they do not know is there are plenty of budget friendly home décor ideas they can implement. Information on some of these affordable and great ideas is as follows:

Reuse items you have

You do not have to purchase new pieces, of furniture or otherwise, in order to convert your boring domicile into a hip space. Instead, take a look at what you already own and think of the best way to reimagine, repurpose or camouflage. For instance, you can reinvent a drab dresser in a guest bedroom by giving it a fresh coat of new and different paint. Use a slipcover in a fabulous fabric to make over the old couch in your living room. Stencil simple designs on pillows to turn them into eye-catching accents.

Add accessories

Almost any item can work as an accessory and this includes objects you find in stores and household items that are very cheap. Great bookends can be made using architectural corbels you may come across in a salvage yard. Driftwood and sea shells collected at the shore can make a lovely natural grouping. A bowl filled with fruits such as crisp green apples can give a bright spot of color to any room or surface. A stack of vintage hardbacks will add character, dimension and height to an occasional table.

Make your own linens

You can easily and quickly transform any patterned flat sheets into slipcovers, tablecloths, duvet covers, pillow cases and curtain panels if you have a sewing machine. You would pay a small fraction of what you would pay for fabric yardage. Take note that this can only work if you have sewing experience and a sew machine, or you are great friends with a seamstress.

Mix without matching

It is boring to have a ‘matchy-macthy’ look while buying entire furniture suites will tend to cost more than putting together an eclectic, creative look. Mix it up for chairs and couch upholstered in complimentary fabrics. You can flank a bed with nightstands that don’t match and decorating with other items unified by tone, material, form and color. You can also try pairing brightly colored plastic chairs or stately wood tables with shiny aluminum chairs. Never be afraid to mix low-end and high-end or traditional and modern.

Saving with stock items

Custom upholstering, sewing, framing and other skilled labor can substantially increase the cost of decorating. Instead of this, you should opt to go for stock items whenever you can. You can purchase off-the-shelf mats and frames, and trim non-valuable art prints to fit them. Go for standard blinds which are slightly larger than your windows and mount them outside the frames. Stocking cabinets can be snapped up and finished with moldings for a custom look. Lastly, you can order a sofa in a neutral and ready-to-ship fabric, then use the money saved to splurge on colorful throw pillows.

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Twin Beds for Kids

Hi! I’m Gladys.

And today we are going to assemble the Rowen Twin Beds.

Make sure you have all the proper pieces and hardware and if anything is missing please call consumer care.

One way to know if you are working with the correct hardware is to compare them with the illustrations that come in the instructions.

Like that! The first step is to attach the Legs to the Center Slat Support.

And for this you will need two 70mm Bolts and the provided Allen Wrench.

Remember to use the short side of the Allen Wrench to tighten the Bolt.

And you are done! The second step it to attach the Headboard Top to the Bottom.

For this you will need four 20mm Bolts and four Cap Nuts and the provided Keys.

Remember to use the short side of the Allen Wrench to tighten the Bolt.

And that’s it! The third step is to attach the two Brackets labeled “A” to the Left Bed Rails.

For this you will need four 16mm Bolts, four Cap Nuts and the provided Keys.

Use the short side of the Allen Wrench to tighten the Bolt.

And you are done! The fourth step is to attach the two Brackets labeled with the letter “B” to the Right Bed Rails.

For this you will need four 16mm Bolts, four Cap Nuts and the provided Keys.

And you are done! The fifth step is to attach the Right Rails to the Left Rails and for this you will need four 105mm Bolts four Wood Dowels eight Crescent Washers four Nuts and the provided Keys.

Make sure to put the Wood Dowels in the outermost holes.

Make sure to use the short side of the Allen Wrench to tighten the Bolt.

And you are done! The sixth step is to attach the Bed Rails to the Center Slat Support.

And for this you will need four 30mm Bolts four Cap Nuts and the provided Keys.

For this step the Bolts are going in from underneath.

And you are done! The seventh step is to attach the Bed Rails to the Footboard and Headboard.

And for this you will need eight 16mm Bolts and the provided Allen Wrench.

If you are working by yourself it is better to start with the Footboard.

And you are done! The last step is to attach the Slats.

And for this you will need eight 32mm Screws and a Phillips Head Screwdriver, which is not provided.

And you are done! Before you use your bed check and make sure all the Bolts are secured.

Congratulations! You’ve just assembled your Rowen Twin Bed.

Source: Youtube

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Pool House Designs

Pool House Designs. Upper west side’s premier buildings.

It’s apartment living with amenities most can only dream of, like your own private swimming pool.

Reporter: at 50 riverside boulevard, you have waterfront living in one of manhattan’s newest addresses.

I’m emily.

I’m dan weis.

And you’re the interior designer? Our design team put this beautiful apartment together.

Really wanted a color palette that was neutral, really played to the outdoors, and obviously highlighted the views.

Reporter: the designer’s favorite piece? This walnut table with acrylic legs.

This is a beautiful kitchen.

It’s all fabricated in italy, italian marble.

There’s a warmth to it as well.

It’s a great place for a gathering.

Reporter: the master bedroom resides in its own wing.

All the furniture was custom made.

I was told to sit over here.

This is the spot.

This is where you can meditate, drink your tea, look out, and watch the sunset.

You have a drenching shower, a beautiful ash finish on the vanity, which is very current.

The tub is as deep as the swimming pool.

Reporter: on the opposite end of the home, a hallway has five bedrooms off of it leading to a media room.

You have the pool, you have the media room.

Reporter: that’s your own private pool.

This is definitely something to cherish if you live in new york and you can have this.

Reporter: to live large on the upper west side, it will cost you $15 million, $350,000.


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How to Refinish Kitchen Cabinets

Refinish kitchen cabinets can be messy andexpensive.

Refinishing them with a fresh coat of paintand new hardware is a budget-friendly alternative perfect for intermediate DIYers.

Here’s what you’ll need for this satisfyingproject: When taking on this DIY task be sure to equipyourself with the proper safety gear.

Throughout the video, we’ll alert you regardingwhen you should and should not use the safety gear.

Step 1: Protect counters and floorsStart by covering your backsplash and counter with strips of rosin paper, taping it to bothwalls and counters.

Place drop cloths along base cabinets.

Step 2: Remove doors, drawers and hardwareUnscrew all hinges and remove them from both cabinets and doors.

Empty drawers and remove them as well, alongwith door and drawer pulls and handles.

If you plan on reusing the hardware, storeeverything together in a safe place along with connecting screws.

Apply painter’s tape around cabinets toprotect cabinets and the wall.

Step 3: Clean the cabinetsUse a degreasing solution and a scrubbing sponge to thoroughly clean cabinets, doors,and drawer fronts.

Be sure not to skip this step, as cookinggrease that accumulates on cabinets will prevent primer and paint from adhering properly.

Step 4: Fill holes and dentsTo ensure smooth surfaces, fill any dents with wood putty, wiping away excess with aputty knife.

If you’re replacing hinges and handles withnew hardware that features different hole spacing, fill all screw holes with wood puttyas well.

Re-apply putty in all dents and holes to ensurethey’re completely filled.

Step 5: SandYou’ll need to sand your cabinets so they’ll have the right tooth for your primer to adhereto.

You can use a sanding block for this task,but a power sander will save time and effort.

Whichever method you choose, be sure to useone hundred-grit sandpaper, and sand with the wood grain.

If your doors or drawers have raised panels,use a fine-grit sanding sponge to get into corners.

Step 6: Remove sanding dust.

Vacuum all surfaces you’ve sanded, thenwipe them down with a rag or tack cloth, which is specifically designed to pick up dust.

Step 7: PrimeFor the smoothest-possible paint surface, start with a primer labeled as “sandable”or “high build.

” Brush back and forth to work the primer intothe surface.

Start by painting the back of the doors.

Once they’re dry, flip over and paint thefront.

Don’t worry about even brushstrokes sinceyou’ll be sanding the primer once both sides are dry.

Step 8: Sand primer.

Sand your primer with two hundred twenty-gritsandpaper.

Whether you use a sanding block or finishsander, be sure to sand with a light touch.

Sanding too hard will remove the primer.

Step 9: Paint first coat.

Paint with the grain, using long, even strokes.

After painting all drawers and doors, checkthe edges for drips, brushing out any that may have formed.

Step 10: Paint second coat.

Allow the paint to dry per manufacturer instructions,lightly sand, and apply a second coat to all surfaces.

Let the paint cure for a day or two beforereinstalling doors and drawers.

Failing to do so can cause the paint on drawersand doors to stick and chip.

Step 11: Install hardware.

Predrill new holes for knobs, pulls, and hinges.

Whether you’re reinstalling old hardwareor installing new hardware, take your time with the installation, making sure everythinglines up and is properly centered.

Your project is complete! Step back and admire your newly refinishedcabinets.

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How To Install Tile Backsplash

There’s nothing like a well-designed backsplash to liven up your kitchen.

Believe it or not, even on a tight budget, it’s an upgrade you can easily do on your own.

Whether you’re using whole tiles, mosaic sheets, or any other tile variety, tile installation always follows the same steps.

We recommend ordering 10 percent more tile than you need to account for cutting, breakage, and other unexpected needs.

Here’s what you’ll need to install your backsplash: A level, tape measure, utility knife, notched trowel (specific for the type of tile you’re installing) tile cutter, tile nipper, rubber mallet, grout sponge,rubber grout floats, a drill, mixing paddle, bucket for mixing thin-set and bucket for mixing grout.

You’ll also need wall tile, tile adhesive, grout, caulk, pencil, tile spacers if needed, masking or painter’s tape, cardboard, or drop cloths and grout sealer.

When taking on this D.I.Y. task, be sure to equip yourself with the proper safety gear.

Throughout the video, we’ll alert you regarding when you should and should not use the safety gear.

Step 1: Prepare area Before you begin, turn off the power connected to the area where you’ll be working.

Since tiling’s a messy job, it’s important to take the proper precautions to keep your space,and your belongings, clean.

Be sure to completely clear off your counter, then cover it with card board or drop cloth.

Remove all outlet covers and cover them with masking or painter stape.

Tape off counter and cabinet edges, and touch up any dents or cracks on the wall.

In order for your tile adhesive to adhere properly, wipe down the wall with water and a mild cleaner.


Step 2: Plan layout Planning your layout is one of the most important steps to creating a great-looking backsplash.

We recommend starting at a focal point, such as the center of the backsplash area.

Step 3: Determine midpoint Use a tape measure to determine the center of your backsplash area.

Using a level and pencil, mark the midpoint with a vertical reference line on the wall.

Starting at this point, position your tiles along the counter to check their placement.

If an end piece is too small, adjust your midpoint to allow for larger end pieces.


Step 4: Confirm counter is level Before installing backsplash, you’ll need to ensure your counter is level.

To do this,run a level along your counter to find the lowest point.

Mark a point two tiles or a sheet up from this low point, leaving one-eighth of an inch at the bottom for caulk.

Mark alevel line with a pencil across the entire work area.

Step 5: Apply Adhesive Use a notched trowel to evenly apply tile adhesive to the area beneath the horizontal reference line.

Using the notched edge, hold the trowel at a 45-degree angle to create horizontal ridges.

Work in small sections to install the tile before the adhesive dries.

If the adhesive dries before you’re able to place the tile, remove it and apply a newcoat.

Since you’ll be positioning your tiles next to the reference line, be sure it stays visible.

Step 6: Place tiles With a slight twisting motion, press tiles into the adhesive, making sure to leave room at the bottom of the tile for caulk.

If your tiles aren’t self-spacing, use plastic spacers to maintain even grout lines.

how to install backsplash tile sheets video

Step 7: Install row Continue placing tiles along your reference line.

If your countertop is uneven, you may need to cut tiles that are too tight.

Trim any tiles as needed with a wet tile saw.

For smaller cuts, use tile nippers.

Step 8: Small areas If you need to install tiles in a small area where a trowel won’t fit, you’ll need to do something called back buttering.

To do this, apply adhesive to the back of your tiles, using the notched edge of the trowel to create ridges on your adhesive as you apply it.

Step 9: Secure tiles To ensure tiles are even and secure, use a rubber grout float to lightly press the tiles into the adhesive, paying special attention to areas that may not be completely flat.

Wipe away any adhesive on the front of the tiles, and check for areas where adhesive may be filling the grooves.

In order to have enough room for your grout, wipe away any excess adhesive in the cracks.


Step 10: Apply grout If you used spacers, remove them from your tile and wipe the backsplash with a damp sponge.

Mix the grout in a bucket according to manufacturer instructions, and apply diagonally agains tthe grout lines with a rubber grout float.

Wait 10 minutes, then wipe the tile with a damp sponge.

You may need to do this several times.

Be sure to use clean water each time.

Step 11: Clean & seal A gray film called a grout haze may form over the tile as it dries.

To remove grout haze,simply wipe with a damp sponge after your grout has set.

Let the grout set for a few days to ensure it’s completely dry before sealing.

Once dry, use caulk to fill edges along the countertop,then apply grout sealer.

Once your sealer has dried per manufacturer instructions, your project is complete.

Revel in your beautiful new backsplash!

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How To Install A Bathroom Vanity

I’m gonna be showing you how to install a vanity into our newly finished bathroom.

The one we’ve selected today has a couple of drawers and one door on the side, but it is important to remember when selecting for yourself, you get something that meets your needs.

The tools that we are gonna require are a measuring tape, wall plugs, your hammer drill, your hole saw, couple of screws, screwdriver, your knife, pencil, cordless drill, skill level, and of course, your protective equipment.

So the first step we’re gonna do is measure up where our vanity’s actually gonna fit, and where we have to make the cuts for our pipes.

Now we’ll work with a 900 vanity today, so we have 1200 here, so that would be plenty of room for a 900 to fit.

So the first mark we need to make would be at the half-way mark,which is gonna be 600.

Now because we know our vanity is 900, it’s gonna be 450 each side from that mark, so let’s measure that up and see how we can find out where it’s gonna fit.

Place your tape measure on the line, find the point of 450, on this side and on this side like so.

The next step is we wanna find out where we’re gonna do our cuts for our holes for our plumbing work to fit through.

Measure from one side to the middle of our pipe just here.

how-to-install-a-bathroom-vanity-backsplash how-to-install-a-bathroom-vanity how-to-install-bathroom-vanity how-to-install-a-bathroom-vanity-top how-to-install-a-bathroom-vanity-sink

And we’ll also do exactly the same for the second pipes on this side here.

So, the next set of measurements we’ll need to do is coming out from the wall to find out how far across and how far from the wall we’re actually gonna fit our pipes straight down.

So again just looking from the middle of the pipe, and the same on the other side as well.

So now that I’ve got my measurements, I’ve written them down on apiece of paper, so that when I go to work on my vanity, I know exactly where I have to cut.

As you can see this is the back of the vanity here.

They usually come with your backing panels.

Today I’ve taken them off to make it a bit easier to get access to where we have to do our cuts and measurements.

Going from the very, very edge, from our measurements that we took inside, our first measurement is going to be 390.

And then from the wall, our measurements were 60, so we’re gonna find60.

And we find the two points where they meet and put a nice big mark to see where we have to cut.

Then we do the same for the other pipes.

And there we have our two markings for our hole saws to go through.

Very important part of this is to make sure that you get your hole saw bigger than the pipes that we have, so that when we slide our vanity over the top, it fits nice and easy.

So before we start to drill, just make sure you’ve got the center of your drill bit aiming right at the middle of where you put your X, and you’ll get a perfect cut every time.

So now we’ve got our holes drilled and ready to go for our pipes to go in, so now what we need to do is take our vanity back into our bathroom and slide it over our pipes.

And we’ve put our backing panels back in,so it looks brand new, and the next step we’re gonna do is insert some screws into the sides here, so we can secure it to the wall and it’s not gonna move.

So before we fasten this to the wall, I’m just gonna make sure it’s nice and level.

And everything looks fantastic.

So let’s get started.

And what we’re gonna do is just make two incisions into the wall in the back of our vanity so we can secure it nice and safe.

So now that we’ve drilled our holes we can put our wall plugs in, and our screws, to secure it tothe wall.

So with our wall plugs, very, very simple, we cut a little bit off our roll,and what we do, is push it straight into the hole.

So now what I’ve done is I’ve put my wall plug in as far as I can go, and now there’s a little bit of extra hanging off.

I’m just gonna cut if off with my knife, like so.

So once we’ve done that we’re right to drill our screws straight into the vanity now.

So now that we’ve screwed that in, just give it a little check, and give it a little bit of a pull.

Make sure it doesn’t move and what we’ve done here looks perfect.

So now we’re just gonna do one last check, to make sure everything’s nice and level.


So now that we’ve screwed our vanity to the wall,we’re now nearly at the end point.

We can now put in our drawers and our tops, and the rest is up for our plumber to do.

And there we have it.

That’s how you install a vanity in your bathroom.

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