Twin Beds for Kids

Hi! I’m Gladys.

And today we are going to assemble the Rowen Twin Beds.

Make sure you have all the proper pieces and hardware and if anything is missing please call consumer care.

One way to know if you are working with the correct hardware is to compare them with the illustrations that come in the instructions.

Like that! The first step is to attach the Legs to the Center Slat Support.

And for this you will need two 70mm Bolts and the provided Allen Wrench.

Remember to use the short side of the Allen Wrench to tighten the Bolt.

And you are done! The second step it to attach the Headboard Top to the Bottom.

For this you will need four 20mm Bolts and four Cap Nuts and the provided Keys.

Remember to use the short side of the Allen Wrench to tighten the Bolt.

And that’s it! The third step is to attach the two Brackets labeled “A” to the Left Bed Rails.

For this you will need four 16mm Bolts, four Cap Nuts and the provided Keys.

Use the short side of the Allen Wrench to tighten the Bolt.

And you are done! The fourth step is to attach the two Brackets labeled with the letter “B” to the Right Bed Rails.

For this you will need four 16mm Bolts, four Cap Nuts and the provided Keys.

And you are done! The fifth step is to attach the Right Rails to the Left Rails and for this you will need four 105mm Bolts four Wood Dowels eight Crescent Washers four Nuts and the provided Keys.

Make sure to put the Wood Dowels in the outermost holes.

Make sure to use the short side of the Allen Wrench to tighten the Bolt.

And you are done! The sixth step is to attach the Bed Rails to the Center Slat Support.

And for this you will need four 30mm Bolts four Cap Nuts and the provided Keys.

For this step the Bolts are going in from underneath.

And you are done! The seventh step is to attach the Bed Rails to the Footboard and Headboard.

And for this you will need eight 16mm Bolts and the provided Allen Wrench.

If you are working by yourself it is better to start with the Footboard.

And you are done! The last step is to attach the Slats.

And for this you will need eight 32mm Screws and a Phillips Head Screwdriver, which is not provided.

And you are done! Before you use your bed check and make sure all the Bolts are secured.

Congratulations! You’ve just assembled your Rowen Twin Bed.

Source: Youtube

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Pool House Designs

Pool House Designs. Upper west side’s premier buildings.

It’s apartment living with amenities most can only dream of, like your own private swimming pool.

Reporter: at 50 riverside boulevard, you have waterfront living in one of manhattan’s newest addresses.

I’m emily.

I’m dan weis.

And you’re the interior designer? Our design team put this beautiful apartment together.

Really wanted a color palette that was neutral, really played to the outdoors, and obviously highlighted the views.

Reporter: the designer’s favorite piece? This walnut table with acrylic legs.

This is a beautiful kitchen.

It’s all fabricated in italy, italian marble.

There’s a warmth to it as well.

It’s a great place for a gathering.

Reporter: the master bedroom resides in its own wing.

All the furniture was custom made.

I was told to sit over here.

This is the spot.

This is where you can meditate, drink your tea, look out, and watch the sunset.

You have a drenching shower, a beautiful ash finish on the vanity, which is very current.

The tub is as deep as the swimming pool.

Reporter: on the opposite end of the home, a hallway has five bedrooms off of it leading to a media room.

You have the pool, you have the media room.

Reporter: that’s your own private pool.

This is definitely something to cherish if you live in new york and you can have this.

Reporter: to live large on the upper west side, it will cost you $15 million, $350,000.


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How to Refinish Kitchen Cabinets

Refinish kitchen cabinets can be messy andexpensive.

Refinishing them with a fresh coat of paintand new hardware is a budget-friendly alternative perfect for intermediate DIYers.

Here’s what you’ll need for this satisfyingproject: When taking on this DIY task be sure to equipyourself with the proper safety gear.

Throughout the video, we’ll alert you regardingwhen you should and should not use the safety gear.

Step 1: Protect counters and floorsStart by covering your backsplash and counter with strips of rosin paper, taping it to bothwalls and counters.

Place drop cloths along base cabinets.

Step 2: Remove doors, drawers and hardwareUnscrew all hinges and remove them from both cabinets and doors.

Empty drawers and remove them as well, alongwith door and drawer pulls and handles.

If you plan on reusing the hardware, storeeverything together in a safe place along with connecting screws.

Apply painter’s tape around cabinets toprotect cabinets and the wall.

Step 3: Clean the cabinetsUse a degreasing solution and a scrubbing sponge to thoroughly clean cabinets, doors,and drawer fronts.

Be sure not to skip this step, as cookinggrease that accumulates on cabinets will prevent primer and paint from adhering properly.

Step 4: Fill holes and dentsTo ensure smooth surfaces, fill any dents with wood putty, wiping away excess with aputty knife.

If you’re replacing hinges and handles withnew hardware that features different hole spacing, fill all screw holes with wood puttyas well.

Re-apply putty in all dents and holes to ensurethey’re completely filled.

Step 5: SandYou’ll need to sand your cabinets so they’ll have the right tooth for your primer to adhereto.

You can use a sanding block for this task,but a power sander will save time and effort.

Whichever method you choose, be sure to useone hundred-grit sandpaper, and sand with the wood grain.

If your doors or drawers have raised panels,use a fine-grit sanding sponge to get into corners.

Step 6: Remove sanding dust.

Vacuum all surfaces you’ve sanded, thenwipe them down with a rag or tack cloth, which is specifically designed to pick up dust.

Step 7: PrimeFor the smoothest-possible paint surface, start with a primer labeled as “sandable”or “high build.

” Brush back and forth to work the primer intothe surface.

Start by painting the back of the doors.

Once they’re dry, flip over and paint thefront.

Don’t worry about even brushstrokes sinceyou’ll be sanding the primer once both sides are dry.

Step 8: Sand primer.

Sand your primer with two hundred twenty-gritsandpaper.

Whether you use a sanding block or finishsander, be sure to sand with a light touch.

Sanding too hard will remove the primer.

Step 9: Paint first coat.

Paint with the grain, using long, even strokes.

After painting all drawers and doors, checkthe edges for drips, brushing out any that may have formed.

Step 10: Paint second coat.

Allow the paint to dry per manufacturer instructions,lightly sand, and apply a second coat to all surfaces.

Let the paint cure for a day or two beforereinstalling doors and drawers.

Failing to do so can cause the paint on drawersand doors to stick and chip.

Step 11: Install hardware.

Predrill new holes for knobs, pulls, and hinges.

Whether you’re reinstalling old hardwareor installing new hardware, take your time with the installation, making sure everythinglines up and is properly centered.

Your project is complete! Step back and admire your newly refinishedcabinets.

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How To Install Tile Backsplash

There’s nothing like a well-designed backsplash to liven up your kitchen.

Believe it or not, even on a tight budget, it’s an upgrade you can easily do on your own.

Whether you’re using whole tiles, mosaic sheets, or any other tile variety, tile installation always follows the same steps.

We recommend ordering 10 percent more tile than you need to account for cutting, breakage, and other unexpected needs.

Here’s what you’ll need to install your backsplash: A level, tape measure, utility knife, notched trowel (specific for the type of tile you’re installing) tile cutter, tile nipper, rubber mallet, grout sponge,rubber grout floats, a drill, mixing paddle, bucket for mixing thin-set and bucket for mixing grout.

You’ll also need wall tile, tile adhesive, grout, caulk, pencil, tile spacers if needed, masking or painter’s tape, cardboard, or drop cloths and grout sealer.

When taking on this D.I.Y. task, be sure to equip yourself with the proper safety gear.

Throughout the video, we’ll alert you regarding when you should and should not use the safety gear.

Step 1: Prepare area Before you begin, turn off the power connected to the area where you’ll be working.

Since tiling’s a messy job, it’s important to take the proper precautions to keep your space,and your belongings, clean.

Be sure to completely clear off your counter, then cover it with card board or drop cloth.

Remove all outlet covers and cover them with masking or painter stape.

Tape off counter and cabinet edges, and touch up any dents or cracks on the wall.

In order for your tile adhesive to adhere properly, wipe down the wall with water and a mild cleaner.


Step 2: Plan layout Planning your layout is one of the most important steps to creating a great-looking backsplash.

We recommend starting at a focal point, such as the center of the backsplash area.

Step 3: Determine midpoint Use a tape measure to determine the center of your backsplash area.

Using a level and pencil, mark the midpoint with a vertical reference line on the wall.

Starting at this point, position your tiles along the counter to check their placement.

If an end piece is too small, adjust your midpoint to allow for larger end pieces.


Step 4: Confirm counter is level Before installing backsplash, you’ll need to ensure your counter is level.

To do this,run a level along your counter to find the lowest point.

Mark a point two tiles or a sheet up from this low point, leaving one-eighth of an inch at the bottom for caulk.

Mark alevel line with a pencil across the entire work area.

Step 5: Apply Adhesive Use a notched trowel to evenly apply tile adhesive to the area beneath the horizontal reference line.

Using the notched edge, hold the trowel at a 45-degree angle to create horizontal ridges.

Work in small sections to install the tile before the adhesive dries.

If the adhesive dries before you’re able to place the tile, remove it and apply a newcoat.

Since you’ll be positioning your tiles next to the reference line, be sure it stays visible.

Step 6: Place tiles With a slight twisting motion, press tiles into the adhesive, making sure to leave room at the bottom of the tile for caulk.

If your tiles aren’t self-spacing, use plastic spacers to maintain even grout lines.

how to install backsplash tile sheets video

Step 7: Install row Continue placing tiles along your reference line.

If your countertop is uneven, you may need to cut tiles that are too tight.

Trim any tiles as needed with a wet tile saw.

For smaller cuts, use tile nippers.

Step 8: Small areas If you need to install tiles in a small area where a trowel won’t fit, you’ll need to do something called back buttering.

To do this, apply adhesive to the back of your tiles, using the notched edge of the trowel to create ridges on your adhesive as you apply it.

Step 9: Secure tiles To ensure tiles are even and secure, use a rubber grout float to lightly press the tiles into the adhesive, paying special attention to areas that may not be completely flat.

Wipe away any adhesive on the front of the tiles, and check for areas where adhesive may be filling the grooves.

In order to have enough room for your grout, wipe away any excess adhesive in the cracks.


Step 10: Apply grout If you used spacers, remove them from your tile and wipe the backsplash with a damp sponge.

Mix the grout in a bucket according to manufacturer instructions, and apply diagonally agains tthe grout lines with a rubber grout float.

Wait 10 minutes, then wipe the tile with a damp sponge.

You may need to do this several times.

Be sure to use clean water each time.

Step 11: Clean & seal A gray film called a grout haze may form over the tile as it dries.

To remove grout haze,simply wipe with a damp sponge after your grout has set.

Let the grout set for a few days to ensure it’s completely dry before sealing.

Once dry, use caulk to fill edges along the countertop,then apply grout sealer.

Once your sealer has dried per manufacturer instructions, your project is complete.

Revel in your beautiful new backsplash!

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How To Install A Bathroom Vanity

I’m gonna be showing you how to install a vanity into our newly finished bathroom.

The one we’ve selected today has a couple of drawers and one door on the side, but it is important to remember when selecting for yourself, you get something that meets your needs.

The tools that we are gonna require are a measuring tape, wall plugs, your hammer drill, your hole saw, couple of screws, screwdriver, your knife, pencil, cordless drill, skill level, and of course, your protective equipment.

So the first step we’re gonna do is measure up where our vanity’s actually gonna fit, and where we have to make the cuts for our pipes.

Now we’ll work with a 900 vanity today, so we have 1200 here, so that would be plenty of room for a 900 to fit.

So the first mark we need to make would be at the half-way mark,which is gonna be 600.

Now because we know our vanity is 900, it’s gonna be 450 each side from that mark, so let’s measure that up and see how we can find out where it’s gonna fit.

Place your tape measure on the line, find the point of 450, on this side and on this side like so.

The next step is we wanna find out where we’re gonna do our cuts for our holes for our plumbing work to fit through.

Measure from one side to the middle of our pipe just here.

how-to-install-a-bathroom-vanity-backsplash how-to-install-a-bathroom-vanity how-to-install-bathroom-vanity how-to-install-a-bathroom-vanity-top how-to-install-a-bathroom-vanity-sink

And we’ll also do exactly the same for the second pipes on this side here.

So, the next set of measurements we’ll need to do is coming out from the wall to find out how far across and how far from the wall we’re actually gonna fit our pipes straight down.

So again just looking from the middle of the pipe, and the same on the other side as well.

So now that I’ve got my measurements, I’ve written them down on apiece of paper, so that when I go to work on my vanity, I know exactly where I have to cut.

As you can see this is the back of the vanity here.

They usually come with your backing panels.

Today I’ve taken them off to make it a bit easier to get access to where we have to do our cuts and measurements.

Going from the very, very edge, from our measurements that we took inside, our first measurement is going to be 390.

And then from the wall, our measurements were 60, so we’re gonna find60.

And we find the two points where they meet and put a nice big mark to see where we have to cut.

Then we do the same for the other pipes.

And there we have our two markings for our hole saws to go through.

Very important part of this is to make sure that you get your hole saw bigger than the pipes that we have, so that when we slide our vanity over the top, it fits nice and easy.

So before we start to drill, just make sure you’ve got the center of your drill bit aiming right at the middle of where you put your X, and you’ll get a perfect cut every time.

So now we’ve got our holes drilled and ready to go for our pipes to go in, so now what we need to do is take our vanity back into our bathroom and slide it over our pipes.

And we’ve put our backing panels back in,so it looks brand new, and the next step we’re gonna do is insert some screws into the sides here, so we can secure it to the wall and it’s not gonna move.

So before we fasten this to the wall, I’m just gonna make sure it’s nice and level.

And everything looks fantastic.

So let’s get started.

And what we’re gonna do is just make two incisions into the wall in the back of our vanity so we can secure it nice and safe.

So now that we’ve drilled our holes we can put our wall plugs in, and our screws, to secure it tothe wall.

So with our wall plugs, very, very simple, we cut a little bit off our roll,and what we do, is push it straight into the hole.

So now what I’ve done is I’ve put my wall plug in as far as I can go, and now there’s a little bit of extra hanging off.

I’m just gonna cut if off with my knife, like so.

So once we’ve done that we’re right to drill our screws straight into the vanity now.

So now that we’ve screwed that in, just give it a little check, and give it a little bit of a pull.

Make sure it doesn’t move and what we’ve done here looks perfect.

So now we’re just gonna do one last check, to make sure everything’s nice and level.


So now that we’ve screwed our vanity to the wall,we’re now nearly at the end point.

We can now put in our drawers and our tops, and the rest is up for our plumber to do.

And there we have it.

That’s how you install a vanity in your bathroom.

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The Most Beautiful and Original Libraries

Even books, today, have become home furnishing as well as shelves and libraries that receive them and contain.

Not that the book has lost its function bestower of knowledge and entertainment, but with the new digital media such as e-books, together with the space problems that our ever-smaller houses present, the monumental slowly disappear with overflowing shelves of libraries books to go toward structures that are specially designed to contain a limited number of volumes also adapting to confined spaces.

The avid bibliophiles and rooms holders almost entirely reserved for books can continue to enjoy the tidy shelves and a bit strict but modern companies want even more carefree and flexible structures for their design features might make some “shadow” to the books but, together with them, they reach a pleasant and elegant combination.

But why u a site that talks about the DIY we present a gallery of shelves and bookcases? The answer is simple: take a look at this gallery of images and ask yourself how many of these libraries may not be realized by passionate “DIY” with a bit of work and creativity.

It is basically to “copy” the ideas of these designers, more or less famous, and re-scale it to your needs; certainly the result will not always be at the same level, but with a bit of skill will approach a lot. Maybe it will be necessary to replace the original materials with other cheaper and more affordable hobbyist but be assured that you too can enjoy, if you wish, one of these designer items that might otherwise cost you a lot of money in case You would like to buy them.

A meterial that lends itself very well to achieve structures that not only act as libraries, but possibly also by partition walls is certainly the cellular concrete that we talked about in this article.

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